Harpers Ferry and a Ferry

Maximizing highway tolls while checking off three more states.

The Sweep, Part 3

There wasn’t really a goal to stay in all of the contiguous 48 states when I started off on the Roamward Bound journey. Still, looking at the map and seeing that all the states I hadn’t stayed in were in the North East (except Arkansas), I decided to sweep through them in the spring and summer of 2019.

From the Washington, DC area I headed to Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia, racking up $80 in tolls along the way. Harper’s Ferry is where West Virginia, Maryland and Virginia meet at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers. It’s also the site where abolitionist John Brown attempted to trigger a slave revolt by seizing a small federal armory. The town is a well preserved historical park.

Next up, Delaware, required driving back through Maryland. I left with $126 in cash for tolls and arrived with $6 left. I camped at Delaware Seashore State Park near Rehoboth Beach. It was a great little beach community.

First Time on a Ferry

Well, first time the 5th wheel has been on a ferry at least. Taking the Lewes to Cape May ferry saved at least $50 in diesel and at least that much in tolls.

Cape May is another beach community on the south shore of New Jersey. One of my favorite things here was the lighthouse tour.

The downside here was on my way to the campground I missed a turn. The GPS sent me down a road which on the map circled back to the road I’d been on so that I could go back. In reality it was a dead end, narrow, residential street with cars parked on both sides. Trying to turn around was not fun and not entirely successful. I ran over a hedge destroying it and denting a panel on the RV. The homeowner was really nice and wouldn’t take any money for the damage I caused. He said they have lots of people coming down the road and have had at least six 18 wheelers stranded at the end. The loop part of the road hasn’t been there for over 10 years

NYC from Jersey City

On New Jersey’s northern shore I stayed at Liberty Harbor in Jersey City, just across the Hudson River from New York City. You can catch a subway from here under the river to the World Trade Center.

Next: The Sweep, Part 4 – New England

Walking in Memphis

Traveling through Tennessee to Maryland and Washington, DC – Beale Street, the Memphis Pyramid, Nashville’s Bluebird Cafe and the National Mall

By law, a travel article about Memphis must reference the Marc Cohn song, so bear with me.

The Sweep, Part 2, Tennessee to Maryland

Leaving Little Rock, I headed to the land of the delta blues, staying in a state park just three miles from Graceland and six from downtown.

Walking down Beale street, I didn’t feel the need to keep my feet ten feet off. There was live music everywhere, drinking in the street, smoking and pot in the bars, and historic spots like Sun Records just around the corner. A happy, energetic party every night, and yes, there was catfish on the table and gospel in the air too.

The Memphis Pyramid, originally a 20,000 seat basketball arena, now a gigantic Bass Pro Shop, on the banks of the Mississippi river, is completely insane. There’s lakes, rivers, shooting range, archery range, hotel and more inside the pyramid. I took the 28 story free standing glass elevator inside to the apex for lunch and the observation deck. A must see in town.

The most moving outing, however, was the National Civil Rights Museum at the site of the former Lorraine Motel. The massive museum covers everything from the start of slave trade through the present day, with special emphasis, of course, on the assassination of Martin Luther King.

Moving on to Nashville, my main goal was to get into the Bluebird Cafe, which I wasn’t able to do the last time I was in town. Reservations are all but impossible to get and only 10-12 seats are available for walk ups. It took three tries but I did make it in.

College Park, Maryland – Washington, D.C.

To visit Washington, DC, I camped at the Greenbelt National Park in College Park, MD. Pro tip – if you are driving through Maryland without an EZ Pass you need a wad of cash. I spent $70 in tolls from Petersburg, VA to College Park.

I was last in DC about 54 years ago. All I can remember from that family trip was the Lincoln Memorial.

Since I may not remember anything at all in a few years, here are a few pictures.

Next Up: The Sweep Part 3 – West Virginia, Delaware and New Jersey

Go East Old Man

The Sweep Part 1

Often credited to newspaper editor Horace Greeley, there’s just no evidence he said “go West, young man” and, in fact he denied it. No one has proven the origin of this phrase.

Lucky for me, my days as a young man are gone – going East should be fine. Nearing six years of full time RV travel, all the states (in the lower 48) I haven’t visited in the RV are in the East.

I left Butte County, California, which is still recovering from the destruction of the Camp Fire, on February 21 heading for Arkansas. It was slow going – winds gusting to 90 MPH, flipped 18 wheelers and a freight train blown off the tracks along the way. Had to hunker down in Benson and again in El Paso. It felt right to stop in Texarkana, Texas before really getting into Arkansas.

The Texarkana Post Office, right on the state line.

Yup, located downtown in Texarkana, Texas, salutes “our loyal confederates” … just like all the statues celebrating America’s adversaries and traitors like Hideki Tojo, Julius and Ethel Rosenberg, Robert Hanssen, Erwin Rommel etc. No statues of them? How unfair, part of our culture!

Little Rock

A short drive later I was in North Little Rock, staying in a municipal park on the Arkansas River.

View from my campsite in North Little Rock. The bridge, formerly a rail bridge, is a pedestrian walkway to the William J. Clinton Presidential Library and Museum.

I got to see the presidential library / museum which showcases the good, bad and ugly of the Clinton presidency. What a fantastic museum.

I also visited Little Rock Central High School and the National Park Service’s Little Rock Central High School National Historic Site across the street, which tells the moving, yet horrific, story of Arkansas’ fight to block integration of the High School, a lasting stain on our entire country. You might want to watch Little Rock Central: 50 Years Later, available on HBO or DVD.

Little Rock Central was again the subject of a Supreme Court case in ’68 challenging the state’s prohibition on teaching evolution. It’s no surprise that the state ranks 44th in percentage of residents with at least a high school diploma, and 45th in personal income.

Next Up

Heading east through Tennesssee towards Maryland.

Evacuation Over

The evacuation is over, I’m back at the RV park. Scale of destruction. Plus rants about a visit to the devastation in Paradise by [he who shall not be named] and another about the American Red Cross.

I’m back at the RV park and about 22,000 of the 52,000+ Camp Fire evacuees can also return home.  For the rest, there’s nothing to return to.

Related:  Evacuation, Fire Evacuation Contd.

The End Game

The current stats on the fire are now 88 fatalities (which does not count those who died at evacuation centers) and 203 missing. As for property 13,696 homes, 276 apartment buildings and 528 commercial buildings were destroyed. Thousands more damaged.

The RV park I’m at was not damaged – CAL Fire constructed a fire line around it and burned the ground away for almost a mile in all directions.  The first rain in 229 days then reached the area and finally put out the fire.

The air has cleared of smoke, but of course everything still smells burnt. 

Rant – HWSNBN

How was the visit to Paradise by [he who shall not be named]?  Well that went about as expected – dumbass comments off the chart:

  • Called the town “Pleasure” five times in one incoherent ramble.
  • Continued to deny Climate Change.
  • Said he “wants good climate”.
  • Said the President of Finland told him they raked the forest! Much to the surprise of the Finnish President and all the rest of the Finns.  #MakeAmericaRakeAgain!
  • … and so much more I can’t even stand to think about it.

Rant – Community vs. Red Cross Support

The community volunteers at the Yuba-Sutter Fairgrounds were fabulous and generous. Thousands of them. And their donations were extreme. The Red Cross? Not so much.  They arrived a week after the evacuation, kicked out all the volunteers and removed most of the donated supplies. Hot meals provided by local restaurants? No more. Evacuees were fuming that coffee was being served at 2oz per person. Now I didn’t go verify that but I did make a cup of coffee for anyone trying to bend my ear ranting about it. The mood at the shelter was in freefall when I left.

I’m sure no expert about disaster management, and it’s very easy to complain. My privileged position – having my whole house with me – meant I didn’t feel personally the things that made so many upset. Still it was clear that the mood at the shelter changed from gratitude and appreciation for the support of the community to anger and hopelessness in a single day.

Putting aside the issue of performance in a disaster, I don’t support the organization financially,

The Red Cross raised over $1.2 million, in a telethon lasting just a few hours, “for the victims of the Camp Fire” in partnership with Sacramento TV station KCRA. However, the fine print on the donation form reads that the donations go to the Red Cross general fund, not to aid any specific incident. Much like Katrina or the $500+ million raised for Haiti very little will actually find its way to the victims donors thought they were helping specifically. Please support a more accountable charity in lieu of the American Red Cross.

Fire Evacuation, contd.

A week after the start of the Camp Fire and the destruction of Paradise California, I’m still safe and sound at the Yuba-Sutter Fairgrounds in Yuba City. Tens of thousands of other evacuees, not so much.

The death toll is now at 63 and 631 people are missing. This will go up on a daily basis – crews have only begun to search Paradise and have not searched the outlying towns. The fire has burned 141,000 acres (219 square miles) and is 40% contained. At least 11,862 structures have been destroyed (9,700 homes). 52,000+ people have been evacuated.

Survivor’s Guilt

The RV park I’ve been staying at for the winter was not damaged, but is still in the evacuation zone and has no access due to road closures.  There’s no power or water at the site also. This is so trivial compared to my neighbors at the fairgrounds, many of whom lost everything and may be sleeping in their cars or on cots in the auditorium. Norovirus is spreading through the auditorium.

Air quality here has stayed in the hazardous range (AQI over 400 as I write this, the ‘hazardous’ level, the worst rating, begins at 300). The hazardous air stretches from Chico to past Sacramento 80 miles to the south.

As if conditions weren’t bad enough, [he who shall not be named] is touring the area Saturday 11/17.  I wonder what dumbass thing he’ll say this time. Can’t say I’ve met anyone looking forward to the Buffoon in Chief’s visit.

Evacuation

It was a lazy morning, until I got a text from Jenna checking to see if I was OK and ventured back outside to check on this fire thing.  The smoke was thick and ash was falling everywhere.  An hour before nothing was going on. Now Clark Road was choked with bumper to bumper traffic heading south and fire equipment heading north.

Paradise Lost

The “Camp Fire” started at sunrise (about 6:30) on Thursday, November 8, near Pulga, California.  The National Weather Service had a Red Flag Warning up for the past couple of days and firefighters responded aggressively attacking the then 10 acre blaze.  By 7:30am the fire had grown to 3,000+ acres and Paradise, a town of 26,000, was under mandatory evacuation.  By 8:30 Paradise was on fire.

Time to Go

At the RV park we lost power and water just after 9am. It was time to go. I quickly got the RV into travel mode and joined the walking speed traffic heading south. That night I’d learn at least five people burned to death in their cars fleeing Paradise.

I stopped at an evacuation center outside Oroville about 10 miles south with about 30 RVs and 200+ cars.  I brought my house while many others brought just a few photos, their  pets and the clothes they had on.  I gave away my blankets, a knit cap and gloves. Oroville residents cruised the park passing out water, food and blankets.  Overnight the low was 33 and we had one fatality. They say it was a heart attack, but I don’t really know.

Déjà vu Time to Go Two

By 5am the fire had grown to 70,000+ acres driven by high winds overnight. The southern perimeter still seemed to be 9 miles north.  The air stank of smoke, but the haze wasn’t horrible.  Nevertheless, just before noon, CHP and Butte County Sheriff’s Deputies arrived in force and said we had to go NOW, passing out maps to the fairgrounds in Yuba City, 45 miles south of the fire.

At arrival, a friend from the RV park needed EMT assistance.

The fire, just one of three major fires burning in California, is now among the worst in the state’s history.  The places I stayed, shopped and hiked in Paradise are lost along with thousands of homes, businesses and an unknown number of lives.

More to follow.

Five Years on the Road

On August 30, 2013, I drove out of Phoenix to start a full time RV adventure. My first real destination, back when I thought that destinations and stops where different, was Trinidad, California, in the redwood coast of Northern California.

After five years on the road, I’m back where I started.

Trinidad, from 2013

I’m back in the area again to close out 5 years on the road, this time a few miles south in Eureka, but Jenna and I spent the day in Trinidad.

Trinidad 2018

Highlights for Year 5

  • Arches National Park, Utah – spectacular rock formations
  • Elephant Butte State Park, New Mexico – fantastic camping at the largest lake in New Mexico
  • Bainbridge Island / Seattle, Washington – visiting Kylee and Jeffrey while staying at an island in Puget Sound
  • Lake Osakis, Minnesota – hanging out with old friends
  • Custer State Park, South Dakota – up close with buffalo and other wildlife in a spectacular setting
  • Sierra Vista / Bisbee, Arizona – Bisbee, Copper Queen Mine, Kartchner Caverns
  • Pierre, South Dakota – Capital of my new home state, camping on the banks of the Missouri River
  • Sturgis / Deadwood, South Dakota – scenic and historic Deadwood – origin of the “dead man’s hand”
  • Holtville, California – hot springs and hanging with friends

Lowlights for Year 5

  • Smoke – fires in BC, Washington and Oregon clouded the air on and off in Seattle and Oregon, even set off my smoke detector in Eugene.
  • Paint – On I-5, en route to Bainbridge Island, I drove through a spill of 50+ gallons of white latex paint covering much of the truck and 5th wheel.  Four weeks later I’m still removing it.
  • Taxes – Arizona piles on by billing me $700 city sales tax on a Truck I purchased in Oregon, after the federal tax fiasco.
  • The big truck cluster t**ck.

What Now?

I’ll be in Eureka for a couple of weeks, then a short trip to Bend, Oregon for an RV repair I haven’t addressed since July 2017.  After that, who knows. Maybe this will be the year I get to Banff and Maine.

By the Numbers

  • 102 blog posts
  • 762 published pictures
  • 335 stops
  • 3 motorcycle trailers
  • 2 scooters
  • 2 RVs
  • 1 dog

The Kessel Run

The route to Seattle is long, extra long when you’re headed the wrong way.

In Lewistown Montana with the WINs and Jenna, I had two key destinations planned – Fourth of July in Osakis, Minnesota with Janet, Duane, Wally and more, and a visit with Kylee and Jeffrey in Seattle. I was not well positioned for either one. Especially poorly positioned for both.

The route from Lewistown took me through Miles City (I’ll get back to this one), Rapid City, Pierre, and Bismark – about 1,200 miles — but well worth it. The week at Janet and Duane’s lake house was fantastic as always and remains one of my favorite destinations.

…the Millennium Falcon…the ship that made the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs.
–Han Solo

Of course this left me over 1,800 miles, by the shortest route from Bainbridge Island, my Seattle area stop. So over 3,000 miles from Lewistown to Seattle. Hmm. Off I went, back to Bismarck and Miles City, and … wait, Miles City again?

It seems like you have to go through Miles City entering or leaving Montana from the east. I’ve been to Miles City before, and it’s a nice place, but the past few months I’d been there 3 times.


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Suddenly I wanted out, out of Miles City and out of Montana. In the morning I made the Kessel Run – driving with no stopping point in mind. I kept going until late in the evening when I found a spot in a rest area in the maze of construction zones that is I-90 through Idaho. I’d gone 656 miles – well beyond my prior longest one day drive of 360.

A couple more stops and I made it to Bainbridge Island, a small island in Puget Sound right across from downtown Seattle.

This visit allowed me to meet Jeffrey, Kylee’s boyfriend. We had a great time taking in Seattle and Bainbridge Island. Jeffrey is a very likeable guy.

The only real downside of Bainbridge is the transit back and forth to the mainland. It just takes too long to get back and forth with lots of waiting for the ferry and tough traffic on both sides. Next time I have to find a way to stay in the city even if it’s a hotel.


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[ List of places visited is not shown on this browser ]

That’s a Wrap – 2017

The year started in Holtville and ended in Holtville. Along the way some old stuff cropped up and some new adventures were had. The new year features an epic continental crossing.

In this Post

  • Holtville Bookends
  • Again
  • Something Different
  • 2018 the Great Loop

Holtville Bookends

2017 started and ended in Holtville, California. Why Holtville? Well, it’s nice to hang out with Seann, Jenna, Gary, Joyce and Gary. The hot spring here makes a great evening ritual. It’s warm and sunny, and sometimes it’s just nice to take a break from traveling all the time.

Again

There was a lot of “again” in 2017. Flagstaff, again. Grand Canyon, again. Repairs, again and again. Holtville, again. Yuma for solar again. The solar system is working great and I haven’t started up the generator once, even for a 5 day stretch of dark skies. Electricity when you want it – what a concept.

The canyon was eye opening. The first time I ever went down below the rim. It changes the “hole” experience.

Flagstaff, this time was a finale. Kylee graduated NAU and I helped her pack up and set off for Seattle.

And of course, repairs were with me the whole first half of the year.

Something Different

One of the new things this year was a new RV. That lead me to spectacular new places.

There was also a month in Puerto Penasco, Mexico, and a night in an abandoned mall in Yuma.

The Great Northern Loop

There’s a 6,000+ mile northern arc on tap for 2018. Starting in Issaquah, Washington at the beginning of May, I’ll be going through British Columbia, Alberta – Banff and Jasper, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Minnesota, Wisconsin, making a ferry crossing to Michigan, Ontario, Quebec and ending up in Maine.

But for now, it’s time for the WiNs gathering in Quartzsite. Wagons Ho!

3:10 to Yuma

Yuma? Yes, Yuma bound. But first, back in South Dakota, I’d just become a resident by getting a driver’s license and registering the 5th wheel. No luck with the truck.

Near Rapid City, Custer State Park is a 71,000 acre wildlife preserve in the Black Hills and a great place to see herds of Buffalo.

I was lucky to visit when I did. Tragically, the Lake Fire in South Dakota has Custer State Park closed right now (December 2017) and nine of the burros have suffered burns in the blaze. The fire is now 100% contained.

On through Lake De Smet, Alcova, and Rock Springs in Wyoming, Duchesne and the disappointing Crystal Geyser in Utah, we arrived at Green River, UT – base camp (at a truck stop) to see Arches National Park. This should be on everyone’s bucket list (the Arches, not the truck stop).


On to Sevier, Utah where I was stuck in a snow storm for 2 days, then Las Vegas where about six miles away the largest mass shooting in US History happened during my stay. So, yeah. Of course there’s nothing that could have been done to prevent that – who could have imagined that someone buying scores of automatic weapons and thousands of rounds of ammo might want to use them. Really, he was an NRA hero, showing just how much you can accomplish when you buy a congress. We should get him a statue.

Hmm, I may have gotten off topic there.

OK, on to Needles, Quartzsite and finally Phoenix to end the Big Truck ClusterTr**k.

Finally 310 to Yuma

On the old RV I had a solar power system installed by Starlight Solar in Yuma and it’s just about time to do the same on the new RV. Just 310 miles to go – Phoenix to Gila Bend to Holtville CA to Yuma. Sort of a cinematic epic.

Starlight is only open from November 1st to May 1st each year, because, you know, who wants to work outside in Yuma the rest of the year. When I got the new RV I thought it wouldn’t be a big deal living without solar for 4 months or so, but really it was. I had a little generator, but having to run it every day, listening to the noise, smelling the fumes, running out for gas every other day, and having to run it to even charge up my laptop … well it really made me appreciate the solar power. Silent, clean, always there for anything I need short of air conditioning. When I pulled in on November 13th for installation I was almost giddy.


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